There are peaks which attract people and make some of them to overcome daring climbing, the other - make jumping with paraglide, the third - ski and snowboard descent. The Trollrigen Wall is not exception.
Because of steepness it became the Mecca for climbers and BASE jumpers alike for a long time.
Expedition Aims The main mission - the second ascent of one of the "Russian" routes of the hardest grade (6B) Trollrigen Wall (Troll Wall) North Face. Participation in Russian mountaineering championship 2006 in a high-altitude -technical class. Shooting of a plot for the program “220 Volt” (7 TV). Shooting of materials for educational film Creation of a film for participation in Moscow International Festival of Mountaineering and Adventure Films "Vertical"
There are peaks which attract people and make some of them to overcome daring climbing, the other - make jumping with paraglide, the third - ski and snowboard descent. The Trollrigen Wall is not exception.
Because of steepness it became the Mecca for climbers and BASE jumpers alike for a long time.
Expedition Aims The main mission - the second ascent of one of the "Russian" routes of the hardest grade (6B) Trollrigen Wall (Troll Wall) North Face. Participation in Russian mountaineering championship 2006 in a high-altitude -technical class. Shooting of a plot for the program “220 Volt” (7 TV). Shooting of materials for educational film Creation of a film for participation in Moscow International Festival of Mountaineering and Adventure Films "Vertical"
Ascent area
Legends speak that Trolls lived here in this beautiful country long ago. Once
at night they decided to hide their treasures and began to dig a cave nearby to
Romsdal fjord but had not time and the dawning light found them and turned into
these rocks for their sins. Cut pins and towers remind sharp claws. Trolls resisted
and did not want to be stone statues. So the walls are cut of frightening cornices
and internal corners.
Trolriggen Wall is situated on Norway's West coast in the area with the beautiful name Romsdal near the small town of Andalsnes and a deep fiord of the same name, one of the
most extended in Norway.
Troll Wall belongs to "Big Wall" group in common with the most complex outstanding
walls in the world: Trango Tower, Cerro Torre in Patagonia, El Capitan in Yosemite.
The extent route, steepness, hard relief, absence or lack of water... All of
this makes you to count only on yourself and your team's mates.
Troll Wall is the most well-known Norway's mountain among climbers from all over the world.
You can read some horror and drama stories about climbing it by mad people mountaineering
in tabloid press. But to tell the truth, however, that till now there has not
been any fatal accident there. The heaviest one ended with broken leg during an
attempt of a solo winter ascent Rimmon Route. However, Troll Wall climb remains
rather risky action, first of all because of landslides and also an impossibility
a helicopter to fly up to the wall for many a long day in a case of a rescue operation.
Brief history of Troll Wall conquest. July, 1965. Two very strong teams- Norwegian and British- approached the foot of the Main
Troll. Unexpectedly they faced a problem to find a way up on this massive wall.
Four Norwegians (L.Pettersen, O.Eliassen, L. Taigland and O.Enersen) made a decision
to pass on a well looked corner in the left part of the wall.
11 days they needed to make the historical first ascent. Soft iron pitons, that
they could hard take out and the severe Norwegian ethics demanding clean climbing
without leaving anything on the route, added difficulties. Nowadays, after 40
years this route has only some duplications and a reputation of "the extremely
dangerous route, even more dangerous, than difficult".
Three Englishmen decided to go more direct route, via the center of the wall.
After long searches of a route suitable on all parameters, they began to climb
on a series of doubtful cracks, then traversed (practically doing on speculation)
on strongly destroyed rocks and, at last, climbed again upwards via a long pass
overhang coming to the end with impressive cornices. For the fifth day of continuous
climbing they reached the summit. It was the day goes down in history of Rimmond
Mountaineering Club. Rimmon Route becomes the most popular on the wall till now.
In 1967 French team (V. Boussard, I. Brunet, Patrick Cordier, C. Paluba, F. Frehel)
opened the most magnificent direct line on the center of the most abrupt site
of the wall. For 21 day they fixed the ropes (600 foots), then for one day they
climbed the rest part of the route.
In 1971 British team did The French way second go. The result surpassed all expectations
- 8 days, at bad weather.
In 1972, trying to avoid problems with fixing legendary Ed Drummond with his friend
and namesake Hugh Drummond challenged to climb a new route via the most hanging
part of the wall in Alpine style. Their epic ascent was the real hymn to the human
persistence. Having had food for 12 days they rested against the severe long storm
and completely exhausted reached the summit after 20 days of hardest slow climbing
waiting out bad weather in thin hammocks or at "toy" stations. The descent lasted
for three days without any food or water. Drummond' named their route «The Arch
Wall ". The route has been repeated only twice.
Then there was a kind of truce. Climbers let Troll Wall along for the whole 25
years. All this time there was not any opening a new route!!!
And in 1997 at once two Russian teams paved new lines.
25.07.1997 - Russian route - 1150 m,VI,5.10.A4. 11 days. Alexander Ruchkin -Koshelenko Yury. The route
appeared with a lot of cornices and sites of difficult climbing.
19.07,1-8.08.1997 - "Baltika" - 1300 m, VI,5.10.A3, 13 days. Alexander Odintsov - Igor Potankin. At the top
the route joined together with Polish variant of French route.
In winter 2002 one more Russian route was opened on Troll Wall by a team from Krasnoyarsk. 1200m. VI 5.10 À4 +. The ideal line deducing directly to the summit.
The main mission - the second ascent of one of the "Russian" routes of the hardest grade (6B) Trollrigen Wall (Troll Wall) North Face. 
