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RAKAPOSHI NW Spur is one of the
greatest challenges for the contemporary mountaineering. With its
4000 m drop and 7 km of probable development, it is for climbers
one of the most impressive structures that can be climbed on great
mountains on Earth. Indeed, NW Spur, from the orographic point of
view, keeps an absolute records; it is, being a spur, that is a
mountain structure with a distinguished and coherent shape from
the base to the top [differently from the ridge that can have intermediate
summits], the "longest spur of the world".
For five years we have collected material
for giving foundation to our possibility of climb the mountain.
Possibility that is based on the hypothesis to penetrate on the
unexplored Masot glacier and to directly tackle the spur
on ice and snow.
News
Òeam-and-project leader - Alberto Peruffo
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Rakaposhi
NW Spur
History
RAKAPOSHI NW Spur
is one of the greatest challenges for the contemporary mountaineering.
With its 4000 m drop and 7 km of probable development, it is for
climbers one of the most impressive structures that can be climbed
on great mountains on Earth. Indeed, NW Spur, from the orographic
point of view, keeps an absolute records; it is, being a spur, that
is a mountain structure with a distinguished and coherent shape
from the base to the top [differently from the ridge that can have
intermediate summits], the "longest spur of the world".
So
imposing that few climbers have tried to climb its difficult flanks.
In 1987 an expedition guided from the expert German
mountaineer Hubert Bleicher, first climber on two other colossus
of Hunza Valley, Shispare (7611 m) and Batura I
(7795 m), was arrested in front of what was defined by friends
"an unbelievable challenge", one incredible [or inconceivable?]
challenge.
In 2001 a French expedition
with young protagonists of the French mountaineering, Manu Pellisser
and Manu Guy, did not go very far black cliffs that leaded
to suspended glaciers of the spur.
Bad weather and objective difficulties of the spur,
not easy to conciliate with the alpine and light style of modern
expeditions, were between the primary causes of the failure.
To
make a dream come true, and to make it a project, you must demonstrate
its realizability, in spite of the objective difficulties, the immeasurable
incognito and the history already written.
For five years we have collected material
for giving foundation to our possibility of climb the mountain.
Possibility that is based on the hypothesis to penetrate on the
unexplored Masot glacier and to directly tackle the spur
on ice and snow.
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