Baruntse
Annapurna
Simone Moro reports:
I’ll be returning to Nepal on the 28th of March.
I’m going there in order to attempt two prestigious climbing objectives.
The first will be the north wall of Baruntse (7129m). This is a
“virgin” wall, untouched except by the gaze of thousands of “eye
climbers!” This wall is located in front of the south wall of Lhotse
(8561m), part of the mountain group between Everest and Makalu which
has battled hundreds of trekkers and alpine specialists over the
past 30 years.
Immediately after this first ever attempt, we’re going to try the
north wall of Annapurna (8091m—of the 8000m mountains it is the
least climbed and the one with the most failures) along the route
previously taken by the French. There is also the possibility, not
to mention the desire, to try something new on this wall...
My companions on this vertical adventure will be Denis Urbko from
Kazakhstan (he has already reached 8 summits of 8000m), who was
my companion in 1999, and Bruno Tassi, alpine guide from Bergamo,
who will be with us only on Baruntse.
http://www.simonemoro.com/
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Simone
Moro, Denis Urubko. Doublet: Baruntse North Face&Annapurna.
Russian
Baruntse North Face. Portfolio.
It had been very difficult, very... but at the end
using all our capicities and resistance we reached our objective.
The north face of Khali Himal or Baruntse nord is realy big, vertical,
dangerous, impressive. It was vergin and unclimbed and only the
eyes of the trekkers and climbers had been dreamed a climb on that
wall after looking the mountain. We knew that we have to use all
our capicities and strenght to have success on that face. And it
happen.....
We strugled four days and nights again wind, cold,
mix climb, ice and rock. We had bivy 4 days in three people in a
tend of two... We never finded place to set it good and only our
legs hanging in devoid.. Ice crew, rock pitons, ice axes, friends
and nuts had been used to climb the complicate wall, but the real
stuggle had been against the wind and cold. We get 35 m/sec (120
Km/h) wind during all the climb and also on the summit!!! We had
been very happy to reach the summit trow this new and first route
and we spend 12 hours to come down fom th mountain rapelling on
a single ice crew for 20 times.....
The name of the route is "Ciao Patrick" because we
dedicated the climb to Patrick Berault recently dead. It was our
friend and mythus. The specification of our new route you can see
below. Now we will have rest and than we will fly to Annapurna I,
8091 m for a new challange.
"Ciao Patrick"
Khali Himal o Baruntse Nord 7066 m
Aperta il 4 Maggio 2004
da: Moro Simone G.A, Tassi Bruno"Camos" G.A, Urubko Denis
Via di 2550 metri di cui gli ultimi 1350 metri saliti in stile alpino
Campi intermedi 3
Difficolta massime in misto M6+ spesso su roccia friabile a lastre
e strapiombante
Difficolta massime in roccia 5+/6
Difficolta massime in ghiaccio tra 70° e 90° su ghiaccio fine che
copriva placche di granito
Esposizione a Nord west
Bivacchi in parete 4
Discesa in 12 ore totali con 20 calate in doppia in piena parete
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