Peak Lenin
(7134 ì)
The planned route of the ascent
via Arkin’s route or via Razdelnaya top depends on a condition of
a snow cover..
The duration of ascent is
planned for 25 days.
The leader
Nikolay Chervonenko,
master of sports, “Snow leopard”
Climbers:
Urubko Denis,
master of sports of the international class, “Snow
leopard”
Krynin Alexander,
Tortladze Giya,
Mynzhysarov Daniyar,
Mynzhysarov Kaysar,
Vilytsin Nikolai,
Samoilov Arseniy,
Klunniy Igor, Gubarev Alexander
THE
PROJECT "SNOW LEOPARD" IN WINTER
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Russian
News:
(2.02.2004)
new!
31.01.04
The team climbed up to 6000 m via Arkin's route and stopped
to spend the night.
01.02.04
The guys made summit push. While descending Daniyar Mynzhysarov
lost and vain attempts to find him did not give any results
at night.
02.02.04
Searching raid was started at the altitude of 6500m. The helicopter
with group of rescuers is planed to start at 11-00 to the
area of searches.
02.02.04
At 11-00 at the altitude of 6200 m the body of Daniyar Mynzhysarov
with a craniocereberal trauma was found. The group has started
to descend with the dead climber. A helicopter from Almaty
flew off at 12.45.
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(30.01.2004)
29.01.04.
The group spent the night at 4400 m on Lipkin's route.
The team divided into two tents 1) D. Urubko, Krynin A. ,
D. Gubarev, 2) N. Chervonenko, Mynzhysarov D. , Samoilov A.
Three guys Klunniy I., Mynzhysarov K., Tortladze G are staying
on radio communication. The communication with the main group
is steady.
The weather seems to improve. The top part of the route
looks not snow-covered and ice sparkles. Temperature is
30Ñ.
The further work is under the plan.
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(29.01.2004)
28.01.04.
N.Chervonenko caught up the main group. They spent the night
at 3900 m. Two climbers K. Mynzhysarov and G. Tortladze are
lagging behind through they have got a cold. Further the group
is going to work under the plan.
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(28.01.2004)
On January, 27 at 20:10 Denis Urubko called and informed
the following:
"On January 27 the group ascended Puteshestvennikov (Travellers)
pass where they stopped on spending the night. Because of
avalanche danger of the slopes they refused to descend via
the planned traverse. On January 28 they are descending in
a direction of falling of water on a glacier.
N.Chervonenko and G. Tortladze stayed below in connection
with suspicion on cold and will catch up with group on January
28 on the paved track. "
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(26.01.2004)
25.01.04
"We did the first full carry from the weather station to Lukovaja
Poljana (Onion's Glade), the temperature is -25C, it's very
windy in the valley, the snow is deep.
On Monday, 26 we have a rest day. Everybody is OK".
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(20.01.2004)
Winter Lenin peak (7134m, Pamir) ascent
within the limits of the project "SNOW LEOPARD" in winter”
starts on January, 21, 2004.
The planned route of the ascent: via Arkin’s route or via
Razdelnaya top depends on a condition of a snow cover. Style
of the ascent – alpine, the duration of ascent is planned
for 25 days.
The members of the expedition:
The leader - Nikolay Chervonenko, master of sports, “Snow
leopard”,
Climbers: Urubko Denis, master of sports of the international
class, “Snow leopard”, Krynin Alexander, Tortladze Giya, Mynzhysarov
Daniyar, Mynzhysarov Kaysar, Vilytsin Nikolai, Samoilov Arseniy,
Klunniy Igor, Gubarev Alexander
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THE
PROJECT "SNOW LEOPARD" IN WINTER
Winter Lenin peak ascent
(19.01.2004)
"...Exactly
three years ago climbers of the Center of Mountaineering Training
for Rescuers and Guides made a suggestion of renewal of old
tradition - "Snow Leopard". Also they made a decision to climb
the all mountains above 7000m in the area of the ex-USSR in
winter, i.e. to execute the program "Snow Leopard" in winter...."
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