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Peak Lenin (7134 ì)

The planned route of the ascent
via Arkin’s route or via Razdelnaya top depends on a condition of a snow cover..

The duration of ascent is planned for 25 days.

The leader
Nikolay Chervonenko,
master of sports, “Snow leopard”

Climbers:

  • Urubko Denis,
    master of sports of the international class, “Snow leopard”
  • Krynin Alexander,
  • Tortladze Giya,
  • Mynzhysarov Daniyar,
  • Mynzhysarov Kaysar,
  • Vilytsin Nikolai,
  • Samoilov Arseniy,
  • Klunniy Igor, Gubarev Alexander
  • THE PROJECT "SNOW LEOPARD" IN WINTER

     

    Russian

    News:

    (2.02.2004) new!
    31.01.04
    The team climbed up to 6000 m via Arkin's route and stopped to spend the night.
    01.02.04
    The guys made summit push. While descending Daniyar Mynzhysarov lost and vain attempts to find him did not give any results at night.
    02.02.04
    Searching raid was started at the altitude of 6500m. The helicopter with group of rescuers is planed to start at 11-00 to the area of searches.
    02.02.04
    At 11-00 at the altitude of 6200 m the body of Daniyar Mynzhysarov with a craniocereberal trauma was found. The group has started to descend with the dead climber. A helicopter from Almaty flew off at 12.45.

    (30.01.2004)
    29.01.04.
    The group spent the night at 4400 m on Lipkin's route.
    The team divided into two tents 1) D. Urubko, Krynin A. , D. Gubarev, 2) N. Chervonenko, Mynzhysarov D. , Samoilov A. Three guys Klunniy I., Mynzhysarov K., Tortladze G are staying on radio communication. The communication with the main group is steady.
    The weather seems to improve. The top part of the route looks not snow-covered and ice sparkles. Temperature is 30Ñ.
    The further work is under the plan.

    (29.01.2004)
    28.01.04.
    N.Chervonenko caught up the main group. They spent the night at 3900 m. Two climbers K. Mynzhysarov and G. Tortladze are lagging behind through they have got a cold. Further the group is going to work under the plan.

    (28.01.2004)
    On January, 27 at 20:10 Denis Urubko called and informed the following:
    "On January 27 the group ascended Puteshestvennikov (Travellers) pass where they stopped on spending the night. Because of avalanche danger of the slopes they refused to descend via the planned traverse. On January 28 they are descending in a direction of falling of water on a glacier.
    N.Chervonenko and G. Tortladze stayed below in connection with suspicion on cold and will catch up with group on January 28 on the paved track. "

    (26.01.2004)
    25.01.04
    "We did the first full carry from the weather station to Lukovaja Poljana (Onion's Glade), the temperature is -25C, it's very windy in the valley, the snow is deep.
    On Monday, 26 we have a rest day. Everybody is OK".

    (20.01.2004)
    Winter Lenin peak (7134m, Pamir) ascent within the limits of the project "SNOW LEOPARD" in winter” starts on January, 21, 2004.
    The planned route of the ascent: via Arkin’s route or via Razdelnaya top depends on a condition of a snow cover. Style of the ascent – alpine, the duration of ascent is planned for 25 days.
    The members of the expedition:
    The leader - Nikolay Chervonenko, master of sports, “Snow leopard”,
    Climbers: Urubko Denis, master of sports of the international class, “Snow leopard”, Krynin Alexander, Tortladze Giya, Mynzhysarov Daniyar, Mynzhysarov Kaysar, Vilytsin Nikolai, Samoilov Arseniy, Klunniy Igor, Gubarev Alexander

    THE PROJECT "SNOW LEOPARD" IN WINTER
    Winter Lenin peak ascent
    (19.01.2004)
    "...Exactly three years ago climbers of the Center of Mountaineering Training for Rescuers and Guides made a suggestion of renewal of old tradition - "Snow Leopard". Also they made a decision to climb the all mountains above 7000m in the area of the ex-USSR in winter, i.e. to execute the program "Snow Leopard" in winter...."

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