This expedition to Everest, the
highest top of the World, is carried out within the framework of
the project " 7 summits ".
Team
Russia
Abramov Alexander (the leader) Moscow
Moskalev Dmitry Moscow
Zadokhin Vladimir Moscow
Rozhkov Ilya Ekaterinburg
Ryzhenko Arkadiy Ekaterinburg
Karapetyan Artur Perm
Gaidamak Vladimir Omsk
Uzbekistan
Tillahodjaev Dilmurad Tashkent
Georgia
Gujabidze Bidzina Tbilisi
Italy
Profumo Giorgio
Carbone Gianni
USA
D'Angelo Davide USA / Italy
Ulrich Marshall
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Expedition
of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Everest - 2004
Russian
News:
(1.06.2004)
new!
Alexander Abramov reports:
28, May
In the morning Dmitry Moskalev and Dilmurad Tillahodjaev went
out from the camp for the ascent and at 12.00 they reached
the altitude 8500m. But storm wind prevented them to summit
Everest because such weather does not give a chance to return
after the ascent.
So they made the decision with Alexander Abramov to begin
descent. Vladimir Gaidamak moved up at 10.00 o.clock in the
morning he wants to reach the second camp 7700m today, the
camp at 8300 tomorrow and on the 30th of May he will make
an attempt to ascend the summit without oxygen. According
the forecast the weather will be good in two days.
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(28.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
27, May
The weather has suddenly changed today. It is snowing heavily
in the ABC and in all other camps. Dima Moskalev and Dilmurad
Tillahodjaev have climbed the camp at 8300m with the main
aim to ascend the summit at night today. Unfortunately
the bad weather can change the plans of our team but they
do not want to descend and will stay another day and night
for the good weather.
According the forecast the weather will be good on these days.
The humidity will be from 43% till 50% and the wind 6-9m/sec.
Vladimir is going for the ascent tomorrow he is planning to
reach at once the second camp then the third and the summit.
We have a hope that our sportsmen will meet other ones on
the summit.
As far as we know the team under the leadership of Shabalin
is at the 8300m now and planning the ascent within the next
few days. We have already ordered yaks to descend the ABC
on the 31st of May and on the 1st of June we are planning
to move down the Base Camp.
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(26.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
25, May
In the morning today two American members of our expedition
Davide D.Angelo and Marshal Ulrich summited Everest at about
10.00 a.m. of local time in the windy weather. They descended
the ABC by 9 o.clock in the evening.
Dmitry Moskalev and Dilmurad Tillahodjaev are on the North
Col now and they are planning to reach the second camp tomorrow.
The weather was very bad at the lower camps. There was a heavy
fall of snow and Dilmurad spent seven hours to ascend the
North Col.
Vladimir Gaidamak have arranged with the Bulgarian climber
for the ascent together. They are both planning to summit
Everest without oxygen the day after tomorrow.
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(25.05.2004)
Alexandor Abramov reported from the ABC at 6400m that another
two members of the expedition of Russian Adventure Team had
ascended the summit of Everest this day. Davide
D Angelo and Marshal Ulrich summited Everest today in the
morning on the 25th of May.
We are looking foreward to get all detailed information
from his evening call today!!!
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(24.05.2004)
24, May
Alexander Abramov reports:
Today at 11.15
a.m. (Tibetan time) the leader of the Expedition of Russian
Adventure Team Of Alpindustria from Moscow has ascended the
summit of Everest today!!! He called today
from the summit and reported that he was standing on the summit.
The weather is good and he feels well.
Another two members of the expedition Rozhkov and Ryzhenko
have not stepped up to him yet. As Abramov informed there
were a lot of members from different expeditions from the
South and North on the summit today (24, May).
In this season it is the first Russin who has conquered
the summit of Everest today. We are looking forward to
get all detailed information from his evening call today!!!
Alexander Abramov reports:
21, May
Our group of Abramov, Ryzhenko, Rozhkov is on the North
Col at the altitude 7000m. We are planning to ascend at 7700-7800m
we have a tent there. In one day it will be the third
camp at 8300m and on the 24th of May we are going to storm
the summit. I hope you will know about our further adventures.
We have prepared food and we are all feel good. Nobody has
aversion to food and drink because if the acclimatization
is not enough there will organism response. We are going to
go out from the camp as early as possible for the ascent to
the camp 7700m. The weather is bad. It is snowing all the
time.
22, May
17.00 I am in the camp 7700m. Ryzhenko and Rozhkov
are stepping up to the camp. We are ascending. The weather
is bad it is snowing. The ropes are fixed badly at 8300m.
23, May
Abramov, Ryzhenko and Rozhkov have gone up to the camp
at 8300m today. We will have a chance to ascend the summit
tomorrow. All the members feel good.
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(20.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
19, May
The forecast is good for this week and there is no wind so
the weather gives us a chance. Abramov, Marshal and Davide
moved up to the ABC today and tomorrow Abramov, Rozhkov and
Ruzhenko will ascend the North Col 7000m the next day it will
be the second camp then third and etc.
Vladimir reported form the third camp that the weather was
fine and he was going to ascend the summit at night. I only
asked him not to ascend the summit in the bad weather.
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(19.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
18, May
Vladimir went up to the ABC yesterday he wants to ascend without
oxygen. The storm of the summit has been proceeding for two
days. The Austrians were the first who ascended 8700m and
then the Italians repeated this success. The main problem
is that over the third camp the ropes are old and it is very
dangerous for ascent. So it will be better to wait when the
ropes will be fixed.
Our sherps have installed all the camps so we can climb
up. Besides the weather forecast for week is fantastic the
wind in the first top 6m/sec. We worry about humidity
of 100% in this forecast because it is the probability of
snow. In the morning Rozhkov and Ryzhenko went up to the ABC
today. They will have the rest day tomorrow and the day after
tomorrow they will ascend the North Col.
Vladimir Gaidamak reported at 10.00 a.m. today he was on
the North Col and wanted to climb up the second camp at 7700m.
At 15.00 p.m. he informed us that he ascended hardly the second
camp because of the strong wind on the ridge and the tent
had been fixed well and all needed things were there. If the
weather is good he will climb the last storm camp or ascend
the summit from the second camp.
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(17.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
17, May
All the team descended to have a rest in Shigar and Shizong.
We did not go in for sport but enjoyed at the altitude 4000m
breathing in the fresh air and eating Tibetan skinny sheep.
These wonderful days flied by very quickly. And now we are
in the Base Camp again. Through hearsay two teams ascended
the summit yesterday from the south one from Greece and another
from Chile. From the north we do not know who ascended because
of the contradictory information. Maybe tomorrow we will get
to know something. Concerning the weather forecast the snow
will be tomorrow. Everest is covered with clouds and wind
is blowing in the BC at night the lightning is seen. In the
third camp at 8300m there are climbers from some expeditions.
We are planning to climb the summit from 22nd till 25th of
May. We are going to ascend without taking risks. According
the weather forecast the snow will be so the weather will
not be fine within the next five days.
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(13.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
8, May
ABC 6400m. I left the Base Camp at about 12 o.clock. At 10
a.m. Mosakalev reported from ABC that five members and three
sherps were ascending the North Col. Probably Vladomir Gaidamak
will climb up at 7800m from 6400m for one day. In seven hours
I reached the ABC overpassing 18 or 20km of glacier. There
was nobody in the ABC except the cook but at 20 p.m. Moskalev
reported that Moskalev, Karapetyan, Marshal, Davide and three
sherps were spending night on the North Col. Vladimir ascended
at 7800m and tried to install the tent there but because of
the strong wind he was not able to do this so he returned
back. At 21 o.clock we had a dinner we him in the ABC. The
four are planning to ascend 7800m, I have a plan to spend
night on the North Col and Vladimir is planning to repair
a tent-kitchen in the ABC. Tomorrow Rozhkov, Ryzhenko and
Tillahodjaev have to leave the BC and reach ABC.
9, May
We congratulate all the climbers with the holiday! While you
were enjoying in Crimea improving the tenacity of the fingers
and rubbing holes of the mountain shoes the climbers of the
Adventure Team were having .good. time at 7000m and 7800m
burning lips and noses and frostbiting fingers. The fair and
windless weather has come. All the members of our team spent
night at 7000m and ascended 7800m. Vladimir is going to ascend
the summit without oxygen another are not so enthusiastic
the sherps have only promised to bring the oxygen-cylinders
at 8300m on the 14th and 15th of May. It is too hard to live
there without oxygen. What a disaster our three oxygen-cylinders
were disappeared! Three members went to BC today. Abramov,
Rozhkov, Ryzhenko and Tillahodjaev are in the ABC. Concerning
the weather forecast the weather will be good from the 13th
till 17th of May. I am not sure what to do try to ascend on
the 15th and 17th or have a rest. What is the better?
10, May
ABC 6400m. All night the strong wind has been blowing. The
leader is deep in thought to descend the BC or go down at
4000m or ascend the North Col on the 13th of May, on the 14th
at 7700m, at the 15th at 8300m and storm the summit on the
16th of May. Now we will have the connection with BC and Dima
will inform us about the weather on the 16th of May and then
I will be able to make the decision. I am waiting the time
when I can call home my beloved wife returned from Crimea
and on the 29th of May she and the team of ten men will set
off for Alaska to conquer McKinley. We separated on the 8th
of April and will be able to see each other only at the end
of June. So you can how the real heroes live. All the persons
in our expedition are missing their homes, children and relatives.
It is like added strength test.
11, May
We are all in the Base Camp today. Only Murat is in the ABC
he is waiting for the weather to have night on the North Col
and ascend at 7500m for acclimatization. It is very warm in
the Base Camp. The surrounding rivers and streams are melting.
Strong wind is blowing at the top so we decided to descend
at Shigar 4000m for three or four days. We arranged with the
liaison officer about jeep for tomorrow. The famous climber
Sergey Ephimov from Yekaterinburg visited us today. I was
very pleased to see him. We watched film .Mind Games. on computer
today. The perfect film for ascent the summit!
12, May
The wind is blowing strongly on the top. In the morning Moskalev,
Luda Koshelenko, Marshal Ulrich and Davide went to Shigar
in jeep to have a rest. The liaison officer helped other persons
of our team to drive to Shizong. It is very warm there the
food is tasty and a lot of air. Tibetans are plowing the wide
fields. In whole it is paradise!
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(11.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
6 May
One part of our team went up to the ABC today. The strong
wind has been blowing from the south all the day and in evening
it dropped. According to the weather forecast on the 7th and
the 8th of May the wind will subside and the plan of our team
is to reach the second camp at 7800m. After that wind will
increase again till the 16th of May. Abramov, Rozhkov and
Ryzhenko have to ascend the ABC tomorrow. The plan is the
same besides we must control the work of sherps they will
carry the oxygen cylinders at the second and third camp. The
plan of conquest the summit is from the 22nd of May till the
1st of June. I hope we will be successful!!!
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(6.05.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
4 May
All the people descended to the BC. In May as usual the stormy
winds blow as it was last year. From the 1st May till the
10th there are holidays in China in addition today is the
Day of Youth. So there are a lot of tourists in the Base Camp.
Two Italians Giorgio and Gianni went home today. There are
only few jeeps. The weather is bad. The expeditions are going
down. We want to descend at 4200m and have a rest if it will
be enough jeeps. We are in good spirits for fighting it will
be a work for whole month further.
5 May
The weather is very bad. The wind is blowing strongly. There
are no jeeps. We are all staying in the Base Camp. Dima Moskalev
is going to ascend the ABC today. Vladimir Gaidamak, Artur
Karapetyan, David D’Angelo and Marshal Ulrich will climb up
tomorrow. The task is one to install the second camp at 7800m.
According to the weather forecast the wind will subside on
the 7th and 9th of May and then again from the 9th till the
16th of May it will be stormy wind. We will see. Italians
have already arrived in Katmandu and tomorrow they will fly
out towards their fatherland.
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(30.04.2004)
Expedition Photos
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"You began to understand, that
you have gone to the expedition with Russians when the
manager of the hotel in Katmandu asked the expedition
head not to dry a fish on a balcony - other guests are
dissatisfied. " (Davide D'Angelo says)
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Photos by David D'Angelo, http://www.explorersweb.com/ex018/
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(28.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
26, April
Base Camp 5100m. It is snowing heavily in the Base Camp
like in fairy tales of Gogol. It is night and silence. There
are lonely lights on the other side of the field. Today Dima
Moskalev and Marshal Ulrich descended from the North Col 7000m.
In the morning they had breakfast and in the afternoon they
climbed down the Base Camp. At 14.40 I started to climb down
too. It is always when a man is descending one idea occurs
"Why have I been sitting so long at 6500m" At such altitude
all the brain seems to be killed and there are no wishes at
all and even the thought about woman is rather sluggish. During
my way to the BC it was snowing heavily and I had to descend
four hours loosing and finding the path again and again. I
could hardly find our camp in the boundless field of the BC.
It has been snowing all day in the BC. We heard that it was
downpouring all the time in Katmandu. Early monsoon is it
possible? I do not believe!!! It was the same in 2000 year
but when the full moon appeared in the sky all the climbers
were able to ascend the summit. In this year the full moon
will be at the turn of May. I hope to God that we will be
successful.
27, April
Base Camp 5100m. The morning is crystal-clear everything around
us is covered with snow. Everest is snow-white. There is no
wind at all as if we are in Antarctica now. Luda Koshelenko
has made the massage room from the canteen. She told that
she had used to massage boxers and weight-lifters for twelve
hours and the skinny bodies of climbers it was not difficult
to massage. The barrel of salted cucumbers came in handy.
The guys have been ascending the summit by plan. It is a pleasure
to communicate with the elite of Russian climbers. Two Italians
decided to wait with their departure and make an attempt again.
According our plan all the team will ascend the ABC the
day after tomorrow.
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(27.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
24, April
ABC 6400m. It is snowing all the time. Today is the Happy
Birthday of Lenin and Communist Subbotnik. But the Subbotnik
became Nepalese. On Saturdays sherps do not work. Today the
team was divided. Rozhkov Ilya, Ryzhenko Arkadiy, Profurmo
Giorgio, Carbone Gianni descended to the base camp 5100m.
Another heroes Abramov Alexander, Moskalev Dmitry, Karapetyan
Artur, Gaidamak Vladimir and Marshal Ulrich are staying in
ABC for ascending and installing camp at the North Col tomorrow.
I do not believe that it will be possible it is 70sm of snow
on the North Col. Everest is standing as white as a bride.
25, April
ABC 6400m. Dima Moskalev and Marshal Ulrich went to the North
Col accompanied by three sherps. Another persons except Alexander
Abramov descended to the BC. I am keeping house here. I have
gave sherps the load for the camp 7000m, met the caravan with
the load from the BC, equipped the office, solved a problem
with generator we conquered each other it is working and I
am touching it, installed antenna. Now the connection with
the BC is perfect 24 hours because we had brought two accumulators
and charge them every day. I am criticizing severely our cook
he is cooking the food on the ground again. At that moment
when I was nearly ready to have a rest and take a view of
my house as it happens usually in classical detective story
Gianni reported me that they made the decision to go to Katmandu.
The state is critical and the prospects are gloomy. I tried
to persuade them but without success. I collected all their
things 85kg for two yaks. I have to descend the BC tomorrow
and decide the question how to send our Italians to their
Fatherland. From evening connection I got to know that Dima
is heating water on the North Col 7000m!!!
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(26.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
23, April
Camp ABC 6400m. In the morning everything is white, all
the surroundings are covered with snow. Today is very important
day to install the tents, prepare all the equipment, link
up the portable radio transmitters and electricity. In
general we have to build the city on the empty place. Sherps
are ready to drop and move hardly. Fine fellows they were
able to build the toilet and now are making the flat place
for our big tent. I have decided that tomorrow the sherps
will have day off but all our team will ascend to the North
Col for acclimatization. All the members of the team feel
good except our generator it has no wish to turn on. We had
a dinner with candlelight near fireplace (gas heater). Today
was one unpleasant moment. Seven sherps came to say that the
results of yesterday meeting concerning fixed ropes were canceled
and now the prices were new at about 100$ for one person.
I would give them the money with pleasure but I am not sure
that tomorrow another sherps will come and ask for 200$. The
mathematics is simple but politics is complicated. I am going
to sleep.. Bye
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(23.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
22, April
It is probably very warm in Moscow but in the ABC it is snowing
heavily. Today from the snowing shroud the members of the
team jumped and crawled out. The snow-covered yaks threw down
the load and went back into the snowing shroud towards the
BC. We have installed only five tents for sleeping and one
kitchen tent. Tomorrow we will try to deliver the camp.
Today it was the meeting with the leaders of the expeditions
and as usual it was the main question "Who would fix the ropes
and pay for this work". Last year it was cost 20$ per one
person and this year it will be probably cost 200$ per one
person. Climbing is very expensive. We are discussing with
Dima Moskalev the prospects he is as the second leader in
our expedition. He promises to kill me if I will not give
up smoking. I hope the sherps will install the toilet, for
you it is funny but when the temperature is -15C and the tears
are frozen with the wind….
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(22.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
20, April
The weather is perfect in the morning. Everest is covered
with snow, there is a small cloud on the top and it is not
moving. It would be cool to ascend today, but… There are no
altitude camps and ropes have fixed only till 7000m. It is
very warm in the Base Camp. In the morning lama came to us
with two hours of lateness but he is the best, the main teacher
in the monastery. Sherps stretched the prayerful flags. Lama
read the prayer, beat the drum and rang the bells. At the
end of the ceremony he gave all the people flour and we threw
it before the wind so I was not lucky to appear before wind.
After ceremony we took photos with our flag "Adventure Team
of Alpindustria". At 3 o'clock p.m. three high altitude porters
and I made the way towards the middle camp 5000m. Our task
is to reach the ABC and find the good place for the camp.
In one day all our team will be there. In the evening we watched
the film "Jurassic Park" in the tent after that at night from
the tents man could hear groans and snarl. All the members
are healthy and feel good.
21, April
We needed only to burn the gas jet and the life became bright
again. It is 15 degrees below zero in the ABC and at night
- 25C. Three sherps and I reached the ABC 6400m. The sherps
did it for three hours and I for six in principle it changes
nothing. We have found the good place for our tent it has
the sizes 16X4m. The place is perfect on the edge of the steep.
All perfect places have been already occupied with another
expeditions. Now at 14 o'clock the cavalcade of nine yaks,
ten members of our expedition have made the way from the Base
Camp towards the ABC. Luda Koshelenko is staying in the BC
she will have to protect our camp from the Tibetans and every
day turn on this strange thing for her the generator. At parting
this heroic woman asked us to show what should she pull. As
a result all the members of the team are in the middle camp
and their leader is freezing in the ABC. Only sherps have
managed to reach the North Col so our late departure and delays
in Katmandu did us good.
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(20.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
19, April
The installation of the Base Camp is a titanic work. From
morning till night we are not able to have a look round because
of the fuss and even we do not pay attention to the weather
in spite that it has been snowing all night. We have installed
the Base Camp with perfect canteen, two kitchens, shower,
toilet, office with four computers, generator and radio station.
With the help of the gas heater it is warm all the time in
the canteen. We salted cucumbers and cabbage into two barrels.
All the members including sherps are like one team. The cooks
cook perfectly. I am pleased with everything though I am very
tired and there is no time for photos and video. Tomorrow
three high altitude porters and I will ascend the ABC 6500m
to look for the good place for the camp. All the team will
ascend the ABC tomorrow. As people say it is very cold in
the ABC and only today the sherps have fixed ropes to the
North Col. In five days we will be there. Everything is going
according to the plan. Tomorrow the lama will come to our
camp to consecrate it and all the sherps are looking forward
to this meeting. Concerning independent experts' estimations
our camp is the best in the BC.
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(19.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
16, April
We got up at 6 o'clock in the morning. It was cold and dark.
The moon is turning to the full. We had breakfast with candlelight
and began our journey. It took us five hours to get from Old
Tingri to the Base Camp. And now we can admire the greatness
and of Everest. It is overhanging and it seems to ask: "You
are here, for what have you come again?" What can I answer:
"I have come to you as old friend". The fortunate was bounded
me up with Everest in 1993. We unloaded the lorries near the
graveyard not far from the expedition of Russel Brice. Vladimir
Gaidamak, five sherps and I have installed the tent "Anaconda"
it is 16m longways and 4m in width. Magatest made the tent
for us. It is double tent for Antarctica. All the people from
nearest expedition came to look at it they have never seen
such tent before. Tomorrow another members of our expedition
will arrive.
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(16.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
13, April
We have broken away from Katmandu!!! But unfortunately the
lorry with our baggage was blocked on the road. So we had
to wait for this lorry till 2 o'clock. It was late and we
hardly managed to pass the border that was closed at 6 o'clock.
Now we are having night in Jangmu. One "wise" porter turned
over the container; there were two accumulators, and all the
hydrochloric acid appeared on the pants of the porter and
other things, which were in the container. With difficulty
we washed the container, other things and porter's pants.
The turmoil aroused around this all the sherps came running.
As the result two accumulators are broken and we will have
to find service center in Nialam. But now about pleasant things
we found in Jangmu where to buy boards. We have decided to
build a toilet at the Base Camp. Nobody has done it before.
It will be Russian know-how "Toilet with light and heating
seat". The person who has visited the Himalayas even one time
will understand me. The toilet is the place where people spend
the tenth part of their life. So why we should spoil our life
with crooked and falling toilet-tents. It is a pity that we
are short of time to take photos and video and send them to
Moscow.
14, April
I like Tibet more and more. Since 1999 it is the fourth expedition
in Tibet. In every settlement I meet the liaison officers
from "Tibet Mountaineering Association" and they are glad
to see us again. In the morning we arrived in Nialam 3600m
it has very changed since last year in the hotels appeared
internet-cafes. We found service center and installed the
accumulators. Luda Koshelenko controls the work of the kitchen
and she bought aprons and over sleeves for the cooks. All
the sherps were rolling with laughter. It is snowing and we
are happy to be in the warm hotel in such wet and cold weather.
All the members of our team feel good only Ilya Rozhkov has
a sore throat. Tomorrow we are going to Shigar 4200m.
15, April
It has been snowing all night and now it is melting with first
rays of the sun. The team is full of energy and we have decided
to go further. It took us two hours on the earth road to get
to the pass 5300m. From this place we watched the splendid
view of Shisha Pangma 8047m the Baltic expedition is going
there. And now we are in the village Old Tingri it is situated
between deserted hills and there are no trees. In the afternoon
it was the dust storm. We met the expedition from Minsk they
were going to ascend Cho Oyu 8201m. Tomorrow Vladimir Gaidamak,
five sherps and I will go to the Base Camp with two lorries
loaded with the equipment to install the camp. Another part
of our team is in Shigar now there are trees and it is not
so windy. I hope we will meet the expedition of Kozlov tomorrow.
The weather is fine for the moment. Nobody is ill.
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(14.04.2004)
Alexander Abramov reports:
9, April
Many events happened after two days of flight so it is very
difficult to collect thoughts. Any person arrives in Katmandu
dissolves in time and the days are gliding away. On first
day of our arrival we were offered to have accommodation instead
of hotel Manang in the hotel Thamel as ancient as Katmandu.
But we refused from exotics and preferred to be accommodated
in hotel Vaishali with swimming pool. Soon disappointment
overtook us because of the strike all the roads towards Tibet
are blocked. The drivers refuse to work and a lot of expeditions
gathered in one place. We meet them everywhere. We had a meeting
with Silus from Latvia; he had ascended Everest last year,
and now he is going to ascend Shisha Pangma 8047m. Today we
have had a dinner with four climbers from Byelorussia they
are planning the expedition to Cho Oyu 8201m. According to
the plans of Maionists the strike will be finished on the
12th of April and on the 13th of April all the expedition
will go towards the board of Tibet. We received the cargo
and the customs officers had a great interest in the box of
voblas. They have never seen such fish before so we presented
one fish to them. At the time of transportation 5 kg of dry
sausages disappeared and one reducer for oxygen cylinder.
So the life is going on…
10, April
Today is Saturday the Holy Day for all Nepalins. All the shops
are closed. We are busy with exploring what we can buy for
our expedition. We visited the guys from Petersburg they have
been working here for five years and have not visited Russia
for nine months. Tomorrow we will have holiday dinner: vobla
with beer. Today Vladimir Gaidamak arrived so all the team
gathered together.
Russia
Abramov Alexander (the leader), Moscow
Moskalev Dmitry, Moscow
Zadokhin Vladimir, Moscow
Rozhkov Ilya, Ekaterinburg
Ryzhenko Arkadiy, Ekaterinburg
Karapetyan Artur, Perm
Gaidamak Vladimir, Omsk
Uzbekistan
Tillahodjaev Dilmurad, Tashkent
Georgia
Gujabidze Bidzina, Tbilisi
Italy
Profumo Giorgio
Carbone Gianni
USA
D'Angelo Davide, USA / Italy
Ulrich Marshall
We have included in our expedition Luda Koshelenko. She will
be responsible for cooking and health of the team. We have
bought the food today and tasted it to understand what will
be better to take in mountains. It looked like a shoal of
polecats in the grocery warehouse. Tomorrow will be the main
day of buying all necessary things: food, gas, reducers, petrol
and a lot of other things.
11, April
We congratulate all of you with Easter!!! In the morning we
were kissing and twisting Easter eggs. We were taking photos
and shooting by cameras. After that we set out in search of
good reducer Honda. The task turned out to be very difficult.
The traders try to overprice, do not give the discounts besides
tell that it is made in Japan then they swear that it is from
India and at the end admit that it is Chinese production.
Today we have been discussing with sherps the conditions of
the work and what it will be if they refuse to work or do
their work very badly, it seems that such talks do not care
them but the talks concerning the bonuses arouse their interests.
As the result it was agreed that the bonus would be the same
as last year. We signed the contract and went for shopping.
We have bought 30 liters of "light" drinks and 120 liters
of juice. With all these things we were busy all this Holy
Holiday in Katmandu when even work is considered to be a sin.
Tomorrow is the last day before our departure from Katmandu
and we should prepare a lot.
12, April
All the streets in Katmandu are overcrowded with half-drunk
young people. There are a lot of motorcyclists and girls in
mini-skirts. And in this complete chaos we are running with
wide-open eyes and making the last preparations. Tomorrow
is the day of the departure and all the expeditions will go
towards the border of Tibet. We have received the last news
about the new strike on the 13th of April but it cannot stop
us. If we are not able to force our way through the blocked
regions we will use the helicopter. The parson came in Katmandu
and wished us the good weather and good luck. I think all
these messages from Katmandu annoy you. But now the real travel
is beginning and as soon as we reach the base camp we will
send all the videos to Moscow.
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(31.03.2004)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team
Alpindustria - Everest - 2004
Supported by the Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and RockClimbing
This expedition to Everest, the highest top of the World,
is carried out within the framework of the project " 7 summits
". The purpose of the project is the ascents on the highest
tops of all continents of the Earth. In the world less than
100 persons have conquered the 7 summits. (Less than has visited
space!). The first action became an ascent to Elbrus (5642ì,
Caucasus, Europe). Then was a successful ascent to Kilimanjaro
(5895ì, Tanzania, Africa). In February 2004 the team successfully
ascended to the summit of Aconcagua (6969ì, Argentina, Southern
America) And now is the world's highest mountain Everest (8848ì)
where the team takes off on the 7th of April
Our Everest Team is international and
consists not only of Russian climbers.
Russia
Abramov Alexander (the leader) Moscow
Moskalev Dmitry Moscow
Zadokhin Vladimir Moscow
Rozhkov Ilya Ekaterinburg
Ryzhenko Arkadiy Ekaterinburg
Karapetyan Artur Perm
Gaidamak Vladimir Omsk
Uzbekistan
Tillahodjaev Dilmurad Tashkent
Georgia
Gujabidze Bidzina Tbilisi
Italy
Profumo Giorgio
Carbone Gianni
USA
D'Angelo Davide USA / Italy
Ulrich Marshall
For the first time in history of the conquest of Everest the
Russian sportsmen plan the coverage of the expedition in a
mode on-line. During expedition the video shooting will be
conducted by digital video cameras. Then weekly the video
data, with use of the satellite equipment, will be sent to
Moscow. As duration of expedition of 10 weeks it is planned
to send 8-10 blocks of video information, which will be used
by a telechannel "SPORTS".
The evening devoted to the Expedition take place in club-cafe
Alpindustria on the 6th of April at 19.00 We invite all of
you to our evening!!!
You can receive information by phones: 165-64-38, 165-90-81
e-mail: komanda@alpindustria.ru
The leader of the Expedition Abramov Alexander
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